Cheap Web Hosting | Free Web Hosting | Dedicated Servers | Windows Hosting | Free Web Space | Trade Show Displays | GoDaddy Coupon Codes | FrontPage Hosting | Business Hosting
cheap web hosting
Search the Web

Art of Geocaching






Home Page

Home Page

Art of Geocaching

What is Geocaching

Land Navigation

First Cache

Adventures 1

Adventures 2

Adventures 3

Adventures 4

About  Me

  


The Art of Geocaching


Physical Fitness
       Health Issues
       Difficulty Scale
       Taking Breaks
Hiking Topics
       Hiking Boots
       Hiking Socks?
       Backpacks
       Hiking Essentials
       Hiking Non-Essentials
       Hiking Poles
       What to Wear
Geocaching Topics

 

Physical Fitness: How Fit Should I Be?

How physically fit you need to be depends on a couple of factors; what kind of terrain you'll be walking through and how far you need to go to get to the cache.  It really just comes down to knowing your limitations.  I currently do all of my geocaching in the mountains of Colorado.  I've been on a couple of hikes so far that have taken me 8 miles round trip.  I'm not going to lie and say they were easy because I had to take numerous breaks.  I also consider myself to be in good shape.  Its hard not to be when you're still in the Army and perform Physical Training five days a week.

If you consider yourself to be in good shape then go for it.  If you are in the "other" category than consider starting out small.  Many nearby parks have caches that are easy to find.  You should always check a map of some sort to determine terrain and distance.  I've found caches in flat city parks off of well maintained paths as well as caches miles into the mountains where the trail sometimes disappears.  When considering your terrain you should also take into consideration your elevation gain.  How high are you going to climb in an mile? On most hike I've been on in the mountain I typically gain about a thousand feet for every two miles.  I have gained two thousand in that time a couple of times too.  Climbing at any pace can really get your heart pumping.  The only good thing about gaining a lot of elevation is once you hit your turn around point, it is downhill all the way.  Your hike might not necessarily take you uphill but just the opposite.  If you are exhausted after trekking downhill for awhile, can you handle going uphill for your return trip?  Right now I am working my way up to a hike up Pikes Peak.  I know my limitations and realize it would not be a good idea at the moment. 

Difficulty Scale
Before searching out any Geocache, you can get an idea of how rough the terrain will be from each individual cache page.  The person who hides the cache rates the terrain difficulty on a scale of 1 to 5 stars.  Click here to see an example of a cache and its rating.  The following bullets will give you on idea of what kind of terrain you can expect with each rating.

  • 1 Star: Wide maintained or paved paths, very little or no change in elevation, no "bush-wacking".

  • 2 Stars: Paths still well maintained, some change in elevation, may need to leave the trail for a short distance.

  • 3 Stars: Some sort of trail but probably not very wide, varying changes in elevation, might have to venture a distance without trails, probably difficult to use a bike.

  • 4 Stars: Narrow paths that may disappear, no path at all, steep elevations, thick vegetation, some climbing neccesarry, impossible by mountain bike, rocky terrain.

  • 5 Stars: Deer trails or no trail at all, intense climbing in elevation, extreme terrain that may require special gear for rock climbing, may have to do a lot of trailblazing or bushwacking.
The rating scheme also allows for half stars if the rater feels it lies somewhere in between two stars.  Don't confuse "terrain" and "difficulty" when reading a cache page.  The difficulty refers to how well hidden a cache is.

Taking Breaks
I have found it easier to take numerous short breaks rather than pushing through and taking a long break.  A short break for me is a thirty second breather to a couple of minutes. For me, the short break is long enough to let the muscles relax and reset themselves.  If I push through, my muscles get sore and stay that way.  For long hikes, I also plan atleast one long break that lasts atleast 15 minutes.  I take this time to eat something, stretch out and even change my socks if necessary.  Then again, theres alway that one cache that was 20 feet away from where I parked the truck. 

You should also think about how much weight you are going to carry and how much you can handle.  For really short hikes you might only have to carry some water.  If it is going to take you a few hours to hike one way you might find yourself carrying more items.  I always wear an internal frame backpack for any hike I go on.  At a minimum it gives me a better workout but it is filled with "just in case" type items.  I still try to keep it relatively light and am probably topping out at 25 pounds.     

You'll certainly need to consider your own physical ailments too.  People with knee problems might find a climb in elevation easy but it is actually rougher on your joints and feet on the way down.  If you require medications you need to consider the time it will take to make the trip.  You might have to take your medications with you.

In the end it just comes to knowing what you can handle. 

Back to index



Hiking: What should I know?

I have been hiking for years now and only recently got into Geocaching.  I started off without much knowledge about hiking.  As I gained experience I figured out what worked for me and what didn't.  Hiking really breaks down to what should I bring, what should I wear, and what kind of navigation skills should I have.

Footwear
In my opinion, the singlemost important topic is that of footwear.  Go ahead and get a cheap water bottle instead of that Camelback.  Get that two dollar plastic poncho instead of anything made of Gortex.  Grab any old stick instead of some crazy lightweight aluminum trekking pole.  You'll get by.  But if you don't take care of your feet you won't be able to do much hiking at all.  A few years ago I went on a hike up Pikes Peak with some friends.  One of my inexperienced friends wore these semi dressy shoes that vaguely resembled hiking boots.  I'll skip the details and the insults to his intelligence and simply say he tore his feet up and could barely walk for days.  A good pair of sneakers might work for you on simpler terrain.  I recommend looking for a good pair of hiking boots that provide good ankle and arch support.  The soles should be able to handle rougher terrain.  Sneakers tend to be too flexible and cause you to feel every pebble.  You should take your time and try on as many styles as you can and find whats right for you.  I've seen many stores with a short rocky walkway to test them out on.  You can choose to ignore any other advice I have but please heed this: Take care of your feet!!!

Socks
So you've got a good pair of shoes.   Well, that alone isn't always going to do it.  I also recommend thick sport socks (you will have to keep this in mind when trying on new shoes or boots).  Unless your shoes were specially made and form fitted to your feet, there is going to be some space somewhere that will allow friction to happen.  Thick socks help fill up the space and provide better cushion between your feet and the shoe.  Thick cotton socks are fine but retain moisture.  Synthetic and wool fibers wick moisture away and keep your feet dryer longer.  No sock is going to keep you completely dry so you should always take a couple more pairs to change out.  Wet or moist socks can cause the friction you are trying to prevent so you should change them out even if you don't think you need to.  The best thing to do is just change them during a planned break or at the turn around point.  I sometimes go a little further in foot protection and wear nylon footies under the socks even.  The nylon always stays sheer and keeps your feet sliding across those friction spots on your shoes.  I also use foot power to control the moisture.  All three of these things combined kept my feet from getting a raw spot, much less a blister on a 22 mile hike. 

Backpacks
No matter how long or short your hike is you are going to take things with you and will want to convieniantly carry these things.  You might want a backpack of some sort or you might be able to get by with one of those vests with a thousand pockets.  You might even get by with any old book bag but they lack padding between you and the contents of the bag.  For simple day hikes I recommend an internal frame backpack.  An Internal Frame backpack fits more comfortably against the back. Because the pack hugs your body it doesn't bounce around like an external frame pack and does not throw your balance off.  An internal frame pack is also narrow in shape, allowing you to fit through tighter spots like trees and rocks.  The only real disadvantages to an internal frame pack is the lack of compartments to organize your items and the lack of airflow between you and the pack (they can get a little warm).  External Frame packs are better suited for multiple day camping excursions.  They are typically larger and have many compartments for distributing the weight better.  Although they are much cooler than the internal frame packs, they can be rather cumbersome and throw you off balance on rough terrain.  Many backpacks have built in pockets designed for hydration systems.  This luxurary usually increases the cost of a pack.  You can save money by just shopping for a pack that works best for you and making room for a hydration pack inside the main compartment.

Back to index

What to Bring With You
There are many things you should have with you on any hike.  How much you carry with you depends on many factors; How far you are hiking, how much time the hike will take, the season, the weather forecast, and even the difficulty of the hike.  Common sense dictates that you don't need to carry an emergency shelter with a weeks supply of food when your hike only takes you a quarter of a mile away from your car.  The following list details the items you should consider carrying on a day hike.  Most of the items are "just in case" type items but it is always better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.

  1. Cell Phone: This is the single best safety item to carry with you.  It may prevent you from having to use the other emergency items you might be carrying with you.  Even if you have poor coverage in the area you will be hiking in it is still a good idea to take it along.  If you leave your cell phone on in areas with little or no coverage your phones battery life will quickly diminish as it uses more power to seek a signal.  In any case, it is best to leave it off until you need it.

  2. First Aid Kit: No matter where or how far you are going it is a good idea to take some sort of first aid kit even if its only a couple of Band-Aids.  There are kits out there that can cover anything from bug bites through field surgery.  My kit is small and lightweight but can cover major cuts, sprains, breaks and even has pain relievers and allergy medicine.  It also helps to know basic first aid.  A good kit will have small book or booklet that can show you proper first aid.

  3. Insect Repellent: Pretty much self explanatory.  I'm not a big fan of biting bugs.  

  4. Area Map: Having a detailed map of your hiking area is a good idea even if you have a hand held GPS unit with its own map screen.  I have not yet seen a GPS with installed maps that I would rely on.  A map with detailed topography is an essential tool in land navigation.  I will cover this more in detail in my "Navigation" section.

  5. Compass: A map and compass go hand in hand.  You might be able to get by with a Cheap Compass that will give you the general direction.  The best thing to do is get a good compass that can give you an azimuth in degrees with great accuracy.  The next thing you need to know is how to use it.  Once again, refer to my "Navigation" section to know more about compasses and how to use them.

  6. Sun Protection: Sun Protection covers everything from Lip Balm, sunscreen, clothing, hats, and sunscreen.  Lip Balm and sunscreen will protect your exposed skin and lips.  Clothing will block the sun but long sleeves and pants might be impractical when it is hot outside.  Lately I have been seeing recreational clothing with SPF ratings between 30 and 50.  Sounds corny to me but I really haven't looked into them.  I mean, how does this compare to normal clothing?  Hats are good for keeping the sun out of your eyes and if the visor is wide enough or goes all the way around, it can keep the sun off your neck as well.  Sunglasses are good for blocking harmful UV rays and will improve your vision when it is especially bright.  Recent studies also show that cheap sunglasses provide just as much protection as those really expensive ones.

  7. Knife: A simple pocket knife by itself can be a great survival tool.  Its uses are only limited by your imagination.  You never know when you will have to cut, trim, whittle, or shave something.  A knife can be instrumental in constructing shelters, litters, crutches, splints, etc.  If you are going to carry a knife you might as well go all the way and get one of those multi-tools with enough tools and gadgets to build a combustion engine.

  8. Matches: In adverse weather conditions a fire could very well save your life.  Hypothermia is obviously a danger in winter conditions but you can still get it in milder weather if your clothing is wet.  Besides heat and cooking, a fire is also a great way to be spotted if you get lost.

  9. Flashlight: I've been on a couple of hikes that took much longer than I had expected and ran into the evening.  The flashlight I had on me was very useful in illuminating the trail ahead of me.  I've also found use for a flashlight during the daytime while exploring abandoned railroad tunnels, caverns and mine entrances.

  10. Whistle: This is a survival tool you can probably live without, but when it is so small and weighs so little you might as well carry one.  A whistle is good for drawing attention to yourself when you are lost or injured or someone else is injured.  A whistle can also be used to frighten off wild animals.

  11. Wet Wipes: A majority of hiking lists will have toilet paper on the list but I prefer wet wipes because the can be used to clean yourself up and perform some personal hygiene as well as replace toilet paper.

Items You Might Want to Bring Along
The following list includes items that aren't essential to a fun or safe hike but great to have along if you have the room.

  1. Camera: You will probably come across some spectacular views or great sites that you will want to immortalize on film.  I've also photographed wildlife I've crossed paths with.  The other thing I am doing with my camera is documenting my adventures in Geocaching for this website.
  2. Binoculars: If you do come across one of those spectacular views you might want to check it out with a pair of binoculars.  Binoculars are also great for viewing wildlife without getting too close.  You can get very light and compact binoculars but this is one of those "you get what you pay for" kind of products.  If you get a chance to try out a bunch on display you'll easily see the difference between the 30 dollar pair and the 130 dollar pair of the same magnification.

Back to index

Hiking Poles
Depending on who you ask, trekking poles, walking staffs or sticks are either essential or non-essential.  When traversing rougher terrain they are great for helping you keep your balance.  On any terrain they also get your upper body into the work out and can relieve some of the work your legs do.  They are also good to have something to lean on when taking those short breaks or when crossing obstacles or streams.  Geocachers also like to use their sticks to poke around potential cache hiding places rather getting down to use their hands  The following bullets describe the various pole and staffs in more detail:

  • Trekking Poles: These poles are really nothing more than glorified ski poles modified for use in hiking.  They are fully adjustable, very lightweight and have ergonomically shaped handles.  The better handles have soft grips for better comfort and won't get your hands too sweaty.  Some poles even have shock absorbers that reduce the pounding you put on your feet and knees when going downhill.  You can use these poles in pairs to get an equal workout on both sides but can be a little awkward on rougher terrain.  Since Trekking Poles are adjustable they are rather short when fully collapsed and can easily be stowed, strapped or attached to your pack.
  • Walking Staffs: Wether you call it a staff or a stick really doesn't make a difference.  A walking staff offers the same benefits of a trekking pole but is taller and typically made of wood.  Many people like staffs because of the many different styles and looks you can get them in.  Many can be very artistic and many people make or decorate thier own.

What to Wear
What you are wearing can be just as important as what you are carrying with you.  You will also want to pack certain clothing items as well as some of the "essentials" listed above.  You'll want some rain gear for when the weather takes some unexpected turns and layers of warm clothing to add when it gets colder.  There are also certain clothes you'll be more comfortable wearing when the temperature climbs.  The following list talks about some of these clothing items.

  1. Rain Gear: On a typical day hike you can get by with cheap plastic parkas or ponchos.  They are very lightweight and very compact.  The idea is that the cheap rain gear will keep you dry long enough for you to get back to your vehicle.  The expensive Gortex rain gear is great stuff but unless you spend days out in the forest you won't need the breathable qualities that gortex provides.  A poncho can also be used to make an expedient shelter or even a litter.  I also like the ability to throw a poncho over everything I am wearing, including my backpack.

  2. Head Wear: Its a good idea to have something on your head all year round.  In the summer time, a hat will provide protection from the sun and is great for keeping rain off your face.  If the visor goes all the way around then you can keep the sun off your neck and ears as well.  You can also keep the rain from running down the back of your neck and down your collar.  In the winter a hat is essential for staying warm as up to 80 percent of your body heat can be lost through your head.

  3. Hi-Tech Fabrics: The labels and tags and avertisements like to say "Hi-tech" but are mostly just polyester.  Synthetic fibers are great for wicking away moisture from the surface of your skin for rapid evaporation.  In the winter time, synthetic fabrics help keep you warmer by helping you stay dryer.  They also dry much quicker than cotton which soaks up and retains moisture.  There are some other fancy fabrics out there but polyester does a good job by itself.  Most of the other fancy named fabrics like "Hydralite" are only glorified polyester products anyways.

  4. Gloves: Just like the "Hi-tech" fabrics, there are some great breathable gloves on the market as well.  In the summer time a good pair of light gloves can protect your hands if you have to do a lot of climbing or bushwacking.  In the winter, gloves obviously keep your hands warm and will prevent cold weather injuries as fingers are generally the first part of the body to get cold.

Even if you are only on a day hike it is a good idea to take changes of clothing in case you get wet or too sweaty.  Carrying additional clothing to put on as the weather changes is a smart idea also.  If you make drastic elevation changes you may experience dramatically different temperature changes in relatively short periods of time.  

Back to index

Geocaching Topics

Now that we have discussed the hiking part of Geocaching it is time to discuss the actual sport and what it entails

The Hunt
The search for the hidden cache is the core of the game.  The hunt begins at home on your computer where you search for caches in your area.  Once you have some picked out you input the coordinates into your GPS as waypoints and start your adventure.  You find a place to park, grab your gear and start hiking.  Your display tells you how far to go and in which direction.  It may seem too easy but once you get in the vicinity of the cache is when the real hunt begins.  If your lucky you might walk right up on it and find it right away or you might have to spend quite a bit of time looking for a clever, well hidden cache.  The longest I have searched for a cache is twenty minutes.  After a few finds I began to get a feel for hiding places; rocks piled together, wood stacked in a pile, cubby holes in boulders, thick brush in the target area, etc.  I've even found caches in cubby holes covered by rocks behind thick brush!
This final search is truely a thrill.  You look for what you think is the most likely place to hide a cache and poke around untill you find it.  Sometimes you run into situations where there is no likely place because it all looks the same.  I once found myself on a hillside looking at acres of stones that were all potential hiding places.  I had to put myself as close to where my GPS told me to go and started a methodical search of the area by spiraling out from the center untill I found it.

The Cache
The cache is the container in which you search for.  They come in all shapes and sizes.  The most common caches are surplus ammo cans and rubbermaid or tupperware containers.  The only real requirement is that the container is waterproof and durable enough to last the seasons and is not easily damaged.  
The size of the cache varies in size from a mouth strip container up to five gallon buckets.  If they get any bigger than a bucket I have not found one yet.  The small caches, called "micros",typically only have enough room for some paper to log in.  Not only are some caches well hidden but some are very well disguised to blend in with the environment.  One micro cache I found was a tin altoids mouth strip container with a magnet glued to it.  It was hidden underneath a steel plate that attached a light post to a concrete base.  The light post was set in the center of three cicular pavilions inside some shrubbery.  You typically know ahead of time what size cache you are looking for.

The Prize
Once you find the cache you are presente with a "prize" or "reward".  The catch is you need to trade for the prize.  The idea is to trade equally or not at all.  Some caches have very nice contents while others are less than valuable.  some of the better items I have found are CDs, software, books, computer parts, DVDs, and various signature items.  The majority of items tend to be toys, happy meal prizes, plastic jewelry, and your basic junk drawer items.  For many, including me, the point of the hunt is finding the cache and not the items inside.  The one common thing in all caches is the log book inside for the finder to sign.  So if you don't trade for an item you can sign the log and read the previous logs from those who found the cache before you.
Many caches have themes that the geocacher is asked to follow.  Some of the themes I've seen are dog toys, oriental items, patriotic items, self-made items, car related items, tools, and dog tags (both canine and human).